Many of you who know me or follow my posts on Twitter are aware that I have recently (in the last ~3 years) gotten into gardening in a big way. I think gardening and horticulture are my new favorite hobbies and I study them obsessively in my available time, while basically performing plant-based science experiments (in the form of “growing stuff in different ways”) constantly.
Anyway, I’ve wanted to write down my observations about my gardening efforts from 2011, partly because I want to know whether others have thoughts to add and partly because I’m making notes for myself for next year. Hopefully someone out there will find this useful.
For those wondering about my setup, I grow almost exclusively in self-watering containers (EarthBoxes) on a south-facing deck in urban Chicago. The deck gets light for almost every hour the sun is up on any given day. When things aren’t planted in EarthBoxes, they’re planted in random other (non-self-watering) containers that I’ve acquired over the years.
This year, I grew mostly heirlooms. They were:
- Black krim tomatoes—I grew these in 2010 for the first time, so this was my second year on these
- Pineapple tomatoes—first time
- Limmony tomatoes—first time
- Chocolate cherry tomatoes—first time for this cultivar; I was turned onto growing cherry tomatoes last year after I took a commercial start from my parents, but wanted to try with an heirloom variety
- Ichiban eggplant—first time
- Little Tyke cucumbers—a hybrid (non-heirloom) that I chose randomly for its size, first time
- Rainbow bell peppers—first time
- Lavender bell peppers—first time
- Serrano peppers—first time
- Basil of several varieties—old timer at this by now
- Thyme—second year on this
- Rosemary—first time
- Chives—second year
Lessons learned
These thoughts aren’t very organized; I apologize in advance.
Chives can survive very abusive conditions: This was my second year growing chives and I have learned that they can take an awful lot of abuse. My current set of chives has been growing in a terrible pot without a drainage hole and not enough soil. They’ve been drowned so many times by torrential rains and spent so many weeks living in a swamp due to my own laziness, yet they continue to grow. In fact, they even survived over winter from last year—they obviously didn’t grow when it was -20F outside, but when spring rolled around, they proved themselves very hardy and I didn’t have to re-plant. Right now I have them inside because I want to continue growing them over the winter—they don’t even get any kind of direct sunlight, and they still continue to grow. Very cool.
Tomato plants go dormant when temps are over 90F: Experienced growers already know this, but this was the first year when I observed it first and then went to the Internet to verify. Those fuckers just shut down completely if there are 3+ days of temperatures over 90, but the upside is that as long as you keep them alive by watering them, they’ll pick up production again once the temperatures cool down. I think a lot of people tend to get frustrated and let the plants die when it stays hot for a week or two, but if you’re patient and help them live through it, they’ll produce when the worst is over. Definitely observed this firsthand this year when my tomatoes went dormant for almost an entire month in July.
Not a super huge fan of the chocolate cherry tomato: Nothing against these guys, but the plant wasn’t a heavy producer at all and the fruits were just average for me. If they were mindblowing, then we would be having a different conversation. I’d guess that we got one cumulative pint, total, of cherry tomatoes over the entirety of the growing season, and they only ripened in groups of twos or threes over a period of five months. I’m ditching this cultivar and plan to try a different cherry tomato variety next year.
Pineapple tomatoes: the slow but steady champion: Early in the growing season, I had pretty low hopes for my pineapple tomato plants. Out of the two I was growing, one still had zero flowers while everything else was flowering, so I cut it down to save resources. The other was very, very slow to set fruit—slower than my five other tomato plants at the time—and I swore sometime in mid-July or even possibly August that I’d never plant this variety again. But then a magical thing happened when my lone remaining plant set fruit: they were glorious. The variety is known for being huge and colorful and maybe sweet, though not many people seem to comment on its sweetness. Mine, however, were moderately large (not the giant 2-pound fruits people talk about online, but more like normal beefsteak size) and incredibly sweet and delicious. Ultimately, this ended up becoming my favorite variety despite my heavy bias towards black krims. I can’t not plant this one next year.
Limmony tomatoes are reliable, heavy producers: The sub-head pretty much says it all. I liked my two limmony plants because they put up with a lot of shit and did not GAF. They were my tallest plants and my heaviest producers. They also were the earliest to produce and the latest to produce. Basically these things produced all season like gangbusters. The fruit was medium-sized, bright yellow, and sweet. Will plant at least one of these again next year.
Rainbow and lavender peppers really are the exact same, but with different colors: Also, strangely, all of my rainbow peppers ended up being dark purple (lavender peppers were light purple). I have no idea why this happened—they are, as per their name, supposed to be a rainbow of colors and eventually end up as red (the color they change to when they are very ripe), but that basically never happened for me. 100% dark purple bell peppers came from my rainbow pepper plants. Maybe this is a result of cross-pollination between the rainbow bell peppers and lavender bell peppers? I think they can do that since their cultivars aren’t so different that they can’t cross.
Serrano peppers: Easy, survived a lot of shit, but not as heavy producers as cayenne peppers (which we grew last year).
Ichiban eggplant: Early and long producer, produced all season (even while it was intolerably hot, unlike the tomatoes). They were my first of all the plants to set fruit and they were among the last that I ended up harvesting from. We only had two plants going, but they produced enough eggplants for Clint and I to begin getting sick of eating eggplant all spring, summer and fall, plus we gave away a good amount to friends as well. I love eggplant so I’m growing this again next year, but I’m still undecided as to whether I want to plant one or two. It was kind of a lot of eggplant.
Thyme survives outside over winter in Chicago: That’s pretty much it. It does. Crazy huh?
Little Tyke cucumbers: This is the first time I’ve tried to grow cucumbers so I don’t have any past experiences or varieties to compare against. I would say that these were very vigorous vines and heavy producers (we had three plants), but note to self for 2012: you need a taller trellis! These, planted in the same EarthBox with the eggplants, were huge water sucks (both types of plants need a lot of water); sometimes they took twice as much water as the other EarthBoxes on a given day. Also, the cucumbers were the first plants on the deck to peter out at the end of the season. They depleted the soil of all nutrients (as evidenced by their sad-looking yellow leaves) and I cut them down in early October. Not sure yet as to whether I want to plant this exact variety next year or whether I want to try another kind of cucumber. I liked their small size for pickling and salads.
Blasphemy! Let one basil go to flower: I’ve grown basil for several years now but I keep changing their conditions to see what works and doesn’t work. Basil doesn’t need much horizontal space, but a nice, deep container seems to work great. Also, if you want bees and other pollinators to come around your garden to pollinate flowers for your other veggies, I highly recommend letting at least one sacrificial basil plant go to flower as soon as you can get it there. (If you’ve never grown basil before, you may not know that you are supposed to snip all flower buds you see for as long as you can, as flowers can change the flavor of the leaves and make them tougher.) The basil flowers are incredibly fragrant and bees effing love that shit. They’ll stop by for the basil and leave after having touched on every other flower in your garden, pollinating everything.
As a side note, never be afraid to aggressively prune and cut your basil plants. I joked several times this summer that I couldn’t figure out whether I was trying to kill my basil or it was trying to kill me. Basil is a plant that reacts well to “topping” (snipping off the entire head of a branch so as to spur the creation of two more branches in a Y shape) and the more you do it, the more aggressively it grows, bushier than ever. And as a bonus, when you do this, you keep the flowers at bay.
Transplanting and fertilizers: If you’re not watering with a fertilizer solution on the day you transplant into the ground or a bigger container, you’re losing out on a big growth opportunity. Almost all plants go through a transplant shock when they’re put into new soil with an undoubtedly different pH level and nutrient mixture, and watering with fertilizer helps to put the roots into temporary overdrive so they grow into the new soil faster and easier. I use a fish emulsion fertilizer at something like a 5-1-1 NPK ratio. Nice and gentle, but effective.
(I’m phobic of chemical-based fertilizers like Miracle Grow because 1) they can and do give chemical burn to your plants and can potentially kill them if you’re not careful, and 2) why bother when you could use something that can’t burn your plants, is near impossible to mess up, doesn’t use chemicals at all outside of what’s naturally occurring in nature, and equally as good?)
Lessons already learned for my fall/winter garden this year: I only just got my fall/winter garden started, but I’m planing to grow two catskill brussels sprout plants, two kales, and a spinach. I chose these because they are seasonal; they’re plants that can survive some frost (and actually benefit from it) and less light during the day. The first thing I learned: spinach seeds do NOT like to germinate in warm temperatures and I am having really bad luck at this.
Also, kale and brussels sprouts attract green cabbage worms, which will pretty much eat your plants to death if you don’t stop them. I don’t actually have a lot of experience having to fight pests up to this point—the outdoor ecology where I live is pretty well balanced in the summer, so I never have to take any serious pest-fighting measures—but this fall stuff is a whole different story. I joked recently that after the apocalypse, when I’m growing food for everyone, we can make stir fry out of cabbage worms for as many as I pick off my plants every day. I’ve begun to fight them by lightly spraying with neem oil (a natural oil derived from a pine-type tree; bugs don’t like it), but I have found that I still have to pick off a cabbage worm or two every week. Hey, at least it’s not 10 every day anymore.
I’m tired of writing and I know I’ll never publish this post if I try to save it as draft for later, so here goes! Any advice, comments, or questions? (I realize there are no comments here, but tweet at me or whatever.)